Artificial grass performs only as well as what lies beneath it. The infill that sits on top, the base that supports it, and the drainage system that carries water away are the invisible foundation of every installation that lasts. This guide walks through each layer: what infill does, how much you need, what base materials work in Austin's rocky soil, how water moves through turf, and the finishing details that separate a careful installation from a shortcut. Whether you are converting a lawn, building a dog run, or preparing a pool surround, understanding these layers helps you ask the right questions and spot the difference between a thorough job and one that will fail in the summer heat or the next hard rain.
Austin sits on the Balcones Escarpment, where hard limestone caliche and dense clay meet. That geology shapes what works here. The same base prep that fails in loose sand will work in our soil, but only if it is excavated, graded and compacted correctly. This guide is for homeowners in Austin and the surrounding areas who want to know what happens before the turf goes down, and why it matters.
Turf Infill Options: Silica, Coated Sand, Zeolite and Envirofill
Infill is the granular material that sits on top of artificial grass and works into the fibres. It serves multiple purposes: it weights the turf down so it stays in place, it props the grass fibres upright so they look natural and perform well, it protects the backing from ultraviolet light, and it helps water drain through the system. Without infill, turf will shift, fibres will mat down, and the backing will degrade. The type of infill you choose depends on the application and your priorities.
Silica sand is the baseline infill and the most common. It is inexpensive, widely available, and does the job of ballasting and propping fibres. Standard silica is angular and can feel coarse underfoot. Coated sand is silica sand that has been rounded and often coloured or treated. Rounded grains are gentler on bare feet and on the backing itself, and they compact differently than sharp sand. Coated sand costs more but is often worth it for residential yards, patios, and play areas where people walk barefoot or children play. Zeolite is a porous mineral that absorbs and neutralizes ammonia and odors. It is commonly blended with sand in pet turf and dog run installations to reduce odor over time. Antimicrobial and cooling coated infills, such as Envirofill, are engineered to inhibit bacterial growth and lower surface temperature in direct sun. These are premium products and are useful in high-traffic areas, play spaces, and climates where heat is a concern. Crumb rubber (recycled tire rubber) is used primarily in sports fields and athletic courts because it provides shock absorption and durability under intense use. It is not commonly used in residential yards.
Most residential and pet installations use silica sand, coated sand, or a blend of sand with zeolite. The choice depends on your budget, the application, and whether odor control or foot comfort is a priority. Your installer should name the infill type and the amount in writing before the job begins.
How Much Infill Artificial Grass Needs, and Why
Infill is specified in pounds per square foot, and this number matters more than most homeowners realize. Too little infill is one of the most common shortcuts in cheap installations. When infill is skimped, the fibres do not stand up properly, the backing is exposed to UV and deteriorates faster, and the turf will mat down and look worn within a year or two. The right amount of infill holds the grass upright, protects the backing, adds weight so the turf stays in place in wind, and helps the system drain water evenly.
Typical infill amounts range from 1.5 to 2.5 pounds per square foot for standard residential turf, depending on the pile height, fibre type, and product specification. Higher face-weight turfs (denser, more realistic) often call for 2 to 2.5 pounds per square foot. Pet and play-area turfs may run slightly higher for added durability and odor control. These are ranges, not promises, and the exact figure depends on the turf product you choose. Always ask your installer for the infill amount in writing, and ask how they will verify it during installation. A responsible installer will specify infill in the written estimate and check it as the job progresses. If an installer cannot tell you the infill amount or will not put it in writing, that is a red flag.
What to Put Under Artificial Grass for Drainage
The layers under artificial grass are as important as the turf itself. Water has to move through the system, and the ground has to be stable so the turf does not sink or shift. The process starts with removal: the existing lawn, old turf, or dead sod has to come out, along with roots and debris. Once the area is cleared, excavation begins. The depth depends on the application and the existing grade, but the goal is always the same: create a stable, well-draining base that slopes slightly away from structures like houses and pools.
After excavation, a weed barrier (landscape fabric) is laid in some situations. In yards with a history of weeds or on areas where you want to prevent roots from penetrating, a quality weed barrier stops growth from below. On compacted clay or caliche that naturally resists root penetration, a barrier may not be necessary, but it does not hurt. Next comes the free-draining base material, typically decomposed granite or crushed base rock (also called crusher run or base rock). This material is spread in lifts (layers) and compacted firmly with a plate compactor. Compaction is critical: an uncompacted base will settle unevenly, creating dips and puddles that trap water and cause odor problems in pet areas.
For patios, pool surrounds, balconies, and pet areas, an optional drainage underlay or pad is often installed on top of the base. This underlay adds a cushion, improves drainage, and is especially useful where water pooling is a risk or where comfort underfoot matters. On concrete slabs or hard surfaces, an underlay is essential. Never install turf directly on concrete and seal it flat with adhesive, because water will be trapped and the turf will fail. On balconies and rooftops, edge drainage details are equally important to move water away from the structure. The turf is then laid on top of this prepared foundation.
Base Prep on Austin Caliche: Excavation, Base Rock and Compaction
Austin's soil presents a specific challenge. Much of the city sits on caliche, a hard layer of calcium carbonate that drains poorly and is difficult to work with. In other areas, dense Blackland clay dominates. Both require different handling than loose, sandy soil. The base prep process in Austin means excavating through or around the caliche, creating a proper grade with fall (slope), and installing compacted free-draining material that water can move through quickly.
Excavation depth depends on the existing grade and the turf application. For a residential yard, three to four inches of excavation is typical, though rocky or clay-heavy sites may require more. The goal is to reach a stable layer and to establish a proper slope that directs water away from the house, pool, or other structures. Once excavated, the base material (decomposed granite or crushed base rock) is spread in lifts of one to two inches and compacted firmly with a plate compactor. Each lift must be compacted before the next is added. This process is labor-intensive and is often skipped by installers trying to save time and money. Do not let it be skipped. An uncompacted base will settle unevenly within weeks or months, creating low spots that puddle and trap water. In pet areas, standing water leads to odor problems and soggy ground. In play areas or sports surfaces, puddles create hazards and drainage failures.
If your yard has a real drainage problem, such as a low spot that holds water after rain or a history of flooding, the base prep alone may not be enough. In those cases, proper grading and surface drainage (or in some cases, subsurface drainage) must be addressed before turf goes down. We will discuss that honestly in a site visit. If the drainage problem cannot be solved within the scope of turf installation, we will tell you so rather than install turf that will fail.
Artificial Grass Drainage and Underlay: Perforated vs Fully Permeable
Artificial grass has to let water through it, and the rate at which it does is specified in gallons per hour per square foot. Most residential turf backs drain at 20 to 30 gallons per hour per square foot, meaning heavy rain moves through the turf quickly. Some premium turf backs drain even faster. However, a fast-draining turf still fails if the base beneath it does not drain. This is the most common reason for puddles and odor problems after installation: the turf is fine, but the base is compacted clay or caliche that holds water like a bowl.
Perforated backing has small holes punched into it, which allows water to drain through. Fully permeable backing is made of a material that lets water pass through its entire structure without holes. Fully permeable backing is more durable and is often preferred for high-traffic areas, pet zones, and applications where drainage is critical. The difference matters most in climates with heavy rain or in pet areas where urine concentration can overwhelm a slower-draining system. In Austin, the real test of drainage is the monsoon downpours that arrive in late spring and early fall, and the daily use of a dog run or play area. Ask your installer for the drainage rate in gallons per hour per square foot and for the backing type in writing.
Underlays and pads are optional layers placed between the base and the turf. They improve drainage on hard surfaces like concrete, add cushioning for play areas and patios, and can include features like antimicrobial treatment or odor control. On a concrete patio or balcony, an underlay is not optional, it is essential. On a clay or caliche base in a residential yard, an underlay is less critical but may still improve comfort and drainage. The choice depends on the application and your budget. Do not confuse a drainage underlay with a vapor barrier, which traps water and has no place under artificial grass.
Seams, Nails, Edging and Power Brooming
The details that separate a careful installation from a careless one show up at the seams, edges, and transitions. Seams are where two pieces of turf meet, and they are the most visible failure point if they are not done right. A proper seam is joined with seam tape and adhesive, with the grain (the direction the fibres lean) aligned so the join is nearly invisible. The tape is applied to the backing, adhesive is spread, and the two pieces are pressed together and held while the adhesive sets. A visible seam, a gap, or a raised edge where the two pieces meet tells you the seam was rushed or the grain was not matched.
Nails or staples hold the turf at the perimeter and at stress points. They must be spaced properly (typically 6 to 12 inches apart, depending on the product and conditions) and driven flush so they do not create a tripping hazard or catch on equipment. Loose nails or staples that work up out of the ground are a sign of poor workmanship or inadequate fastening.
Edging is the boundary where turf meets patio, driveway, or planting bed. Clean edges are finished with bender board (flexible edging), a secured perimeter, or turf cut tight to pavers or a cool deck. Turf should not fray at the edges or lift away from the boundary. Where turf meets pavers or a hard surface, it should be cut cleanly and secured so it does not curl or shift. Power brooming is the final step: the turf is brushed with a power broom or grooming brush to stand the fibres up, spread infill evenly, and give it a finished, natural look. A turf that has not been power broomed will look matted and uneven, and the infill will not be distributed properly. Ask to see the finished product after brooming and before you accept the job.
What a Written Turf Spec Should Include
Before any turf is laid, you should have a written specification that names every material and method. This protects you and ensures the installer is on the same page as you are. A complete spec includes: the turf product name and fibre type (polyethylene, polypropylene, or nylon), the face weight in ounces per square yard, the pile height in millimeters, the backing type and drainage rate in gallons per hour per square foot, the infill type and amount in pounds per square foot, the base material and depth, the compaction method, whether a weed barrier is used, the seam method and edging type, cleanup and haul-off, and the workmanship warranty period (typically one to three years on the installation itself).
This spec is your proof of what was promised. If you later find that infill is missing, that the base was not compacted, or that the turf product is different from what was quoted, you have it in writing. A responsible installer will provide this spec before the job starts, will reference it during the work, and will stand behind it. If an installer will not put the spec in writing or becomes vague when you ask for details, that is a reason to get a second opinion or choose someone else. You can request a free estimate that includes a written spec and a site visit to measure the area and assess the ground conditions. See the pricing page for typical ranges and what to expect.